Exhaust Pipe Hangers (2 types)

[svenedin]

I have just fitted a new ESM supplied 3-piece stainless steel exhaust. I used a new fitting kit from ESM which included new straps, brackets etc.

I chose the fitting kit that has through brackets that attach directly to the webbing straps. The result of using this type of bracket was that the exhaust pipe was hard up against the crossmember. After much annoyance under the car (and bruises) I decided to fit the old (horribly rusty) parts which are a hook type plate that attaches to the webbing strap and a U-bolt clamp. The result of using the old parts is that the exhaust now sits perfectly as before and does not hit the crossmember.

I just thought I'd post this because I looked up "exhaust hitting crossmember" and nobody mentioned this in any of the threads.


This is what I used first and the exhaust sat too high and fouled the crossmember. The brackets are an extremely close fit on the pipe and you have to fit them over the end of the exhaust before you fit the pipe(s). Incidentally, I think it is this very close fit over the pipe that would scrape the plating on an aluminised exhaust and why ESM say "not for aluminised exhausts".

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I then tried the old parts, a hook plate that attaches to the webbing strap and a U-bolt clamp. The result: exhaust does not foul the crossmember. These parts are available from ESM as an alternative fitting kit and I should have used these the first time and avoided a lot of hassle. I will replace with new parts when I get round to it.......

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[simmitc]

I believe that there are two different lengths of strap. A longer one is used in the more forward mounting that secures under the seat. This uses the "hook" and U-bolt arrangement. A shorter strap is fitted near the tail pipe, secured in the boot floor, and using the more closed clamp on the pipe - it is simple to slide it on the short distance on the tail pipe.

I keep a stock of both length straps and both types of clamp. They are interchangeable to a degree, and it is sometimes "mix and match" but the most important thing is the strap length.

Sometimes, "kits" are more just a collection of parts rather than what is really needed.

I have not used a three piece pipe from ESM, but I have fitted other pipes where the bend is not quite what it should be, and that can also lead to problems with hitting the crossmember.

In the old days, we used to cut down old leather belts to save buying new straps, and I expect that there were a great many other bodges like that. The leather belt trick also worked to protect the handbrake cable where it comes through the tunnel.

[svenedin]

I believe that there are two different lengths of strap. A longer one is used in the more forward mounting that secures under the seat. This uses the "hook" and U-bolt arrangement. A shorter strap is fitted near the tail pipe, secured in the boot floor, and using the more closed clamp on the pipe - it is simple to slide it on the short distance on the tail pipe.

I keep a stock of both length straps and both types of clamp. They are interchangeable to a degree, and it is sometimes "mix and match" but the most important thing is the strap length.

Sometimes, "kits" are more just a collection of parts rather than what is really needed.

I have not used a three piece pipe from ESM, but I have fitted other pipes where the bend is not quite what it should be, and that can also lead to problems with hitting the crossmember.

In the old days, we used to cut down old leather belts to save buying new straps, and I expect that there were a great many other bodges like that. The leather belt trick also worked to protect the handbrake cable where it comes through the tunnel.

Yes there are two different lengths of strap. The longer one securing on the left hand side under the rear seat but the kits either come with 2x closed clamps or 2x hook and U-bolt clamps.

So far so good. I did the trick of using a jack to support the silencer to get a good connection with the clamp on the manifold and the better cast type clamp. No leak there (yet). No fouling problem at all where the exhaust pipe exits the engine bay. Loads of clearance all round.

I think there's a slight knock from the rear so a tweak or two is going to be needed. Possibly hitting a leaf spring or the petrol tank, I'm not sure yet. I'll do that when I get some new hook plates and U-bolt clamps.

My car now has a very loud "parp" again for the first time in many years. Really quite a startling parp!

Stephen