Morris Minor Owners Club

Some time ago a local welder replaced the O/S spring hanger (that one under the seat). I replaced the N/S in line with the O/S.
I’ve since found that the rear axle is approx 25mm further back than it should be!

I intend to replace both again. Without removing the whole axle what’s the simplest way to do this? Will just jacking up the rear end and dropping front pins give enough access?
Thanks, John

When replacing the leaf springs the normal procedure is to jack up the car on the body and then with the body supported on axle stands and suitable blocks of wood to then jack up and support the axle on stands. Some people use the spring hanging bracket to support the body because it should be strong. Obviously you can’t do that if replacing the hangers. I used the small area to the rear of the petrol tank to support the body, with a wooden long block of suitable size. Be careful and check this area is absolutely sound if attempting this.

Stephen

Thanks for your early response Stephen, I have replaced the area behind the fuel tank so strength is there. I think the sequence is: (assuming front wheels chocked)
- remove hanger pin nuts
- block rear to begin to take weight
- 2nd jack under rear axle to take weight and allow careful lowering of suspension when wheels off
- remove rear wheel nuts and tap hanger pins out
- raise rear further so wheels can be removed

Will I need to disconnect the prop?

Thanks again, John

Before you do anything I take it that you have measured the distances/location in line with the BMC drawing. Unless you are experiencing handling problems it seems a lot of work to move the spring hangers 25mm.
That 25mm should not cause any problems. The only visible difference will be the amount the gearbox output shaft protrudes from the gearbox rear housing and there is plenty of meat on the output shaft to cope with the 25mm.
As you appear to have been running the car without problem I would be tempted to leave well alone.

Hello Phil, it’s cross checking BMC measurements that’s lead to the decision to act. First spotted when looking at rear wheel not being central in the rear wheel arch, thanks, John

The wheel is not necessary in the centre of the wheel arch. As the spring flattens & especially over time the axle moves rearwards and that is why there is a sliding joint to the rear of the gearbox.

I don't think it's uncommon, When I did ours the hangers were still the originals (or remains of) one side was 15mm further back than the other, I put them back as per the original dimensions, having 2 the same is the most important point.

Thanks Kevin, mine is more than 15mm unfortunately and I’m getting prop vibration as I suspect the shaft is a bit further out of the gearbox tail housing than designed. UJ is good and previously not an issue.

I would check the balance of the shaft and wheels before moving the hangers.