Exhaust flange gasket

[Hunsta]

G'day all. As Im fitting a 948cc engine to my Morris 8 E series, I've got a couple of manifolds that I got with the engine. First question is, one manifold is a two part manifold and the other is a one part. Which is the one I should use? Or is either ok? I was considering putting extractors on and using the inlet manifold of the two part, but I don't think the exhaust outlet on the middle pipe would fit behind it.
Second part of the question, if I put a standard exhaust on it, does the flange between the manifold and exhaust end need a flange gasket?
Cheers
Craig

[philthehill]

If you do not use an extractor manifold you can use either type of manifold i.e. one part or two part.
You are correct in that when using extractors the inlet half of the two part manifold will not fit over the centre pipe of the extractor.
If you decide to use the extractor it is better to use a separate after market inlet manifold.
You can obtain after market inlet manifolds with a heating facility or without a heating facility but whether you need the heating facility is dependent upon the application and environment it is used in.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini- ... 1ea4cd969e That is a nice period inlet manifold and would look well fitted to a 948cc Minor engine.
The joint between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe does not have a gasket. The joint is clamped tightly together by the clamp.
When fitting the joint together I smear the manifold flange, exhaust flange and the clamp holding surfaces with grease and it helps to slide it all together. When the engine is first started the manifold/exhaust joint it will smoke a bit but the grease does make the fitting so much easier/better.
If you do fit extractors use the extractors with the smaller diameter pipes as the 948cc does not appreciate the large bore pipes as used on the 1275cc engine and you can loose power with the larger pipes.
As they say 'sometimes small is better'

[Hunsta]

If you do fit extractors use the extractors with the smaller diameter pipes as the 948cc does not appreciate the large bore pipes as used on the 1275cc engine and you can loose power with the larger pipes.
As they say 'sometimes small is better'

Thanks very much for that info. Thats great. I had only though today about whether I could extend the ends of the inlet manifold to accommodate an extractor. I work in an engineering shop, so extension pieces could be milled.
As for the pipe size for the 948cc, what would you recommend?
Cheers
Craig

[philthehill]

The link below shows the manifold for the 948cc/998cc engine Minor.
http://www.maniflow.co.uk/index.php?vie ... oduct=1494

As you work in an engineering wksp you may be better off using the exhaust LCB for a 948cc/1098cc Midget/Sprite as the centre pipe drops away from the centre exhaust port quite sharply.
http://www.maniflow.co.uk/index.php?vie ... oduct=1185

As regards size of pipe:-
Extracted from David Vizard's book Tuning The A Series,
The outer pipes from the head to the coming together of the pipes each should be 1 1/8" ID x 11" long.
The secondary pipe from the above pipes coming together to the second coming together (end and centre pipes) should be 1 1/4" ID X 15 1/2""" long.
The centre pipe should be 1 1/4" ID x 25" long.
The tail pipe should be 1 3/4" ID

[bmcecosse]

I advise against using any form of Long Centre Branch (LCB) exhaust manifold on a 948 engine - unless you plan major engine modifications - which seems unlikely in an 8E ? The normal Minor exhaust is very capable on a standard 948 engine.. A fancy exhaust will gain almost nothing - except perhaps more noise.... The inlet section from the 'two piece' Minor manifold is particularly inefficient and should be avoided...

[Hunsta]

Thanks once again philthehill. Some very useful info for me to consider there.
As for bmceccose's comments, they are valid points. The new 948 going in is a standard (although now unleaded) motor. I did however when ordering it, have the option of a better cam, but decided on a stock motor as too much raw Morris power(insert chuckle here) would be too much for a braking system that can not be modified like the minors could. And I freely confess that the extractors that would have been coupled to a standard HS2 su carburettor was only going to be for noise purposes.
Now back to the tools.
Cheers
Craig

[philthehill]

There is nothing wrong with the Morris 8 Series 'E' brakes. More than adequate even for a for a tuned car.
What ever manifold(s) you fit I suspect that you may have to modify the exhaust to clear the chassis so in the long run a modified LCB or home made headers may be the easier option.
Now here is a modified Morris for you to consider and still with drum brakes
http://sucarb.co.uk/news/
Run the videos with the volume on full and take in the atmosphere - the exhaust noise is great
As an aside I did undertake some work on the above car when it was stabled in the village where I live.
Some photos of the modifications undertaken by yourself would be appreciated.
For a little while I had a part share in a Morris 8 Special fitted with twin SU carbs and 4 tube headers all finishing at a pair of BSA Gold Star silencers. Sounded brilliant!
Phil

[bmcecosse]

Well - I had 3 X Morris 8Es at one time -and the brakes were all TERRIBLE !

[Hunsta]

Well - I had 3 X Morris 8Es at one time -and the brakes were all TERRIBLE !

Well they can't be as bad as the brakes on the BMW R65 I swapped for it..

[Hunsta]

As Ive been asked I`ve put some pics up of what Ive done so far. below is the beast in question. Swapped a 1984 R65 BMW for it. Think I got the better deal. The motor was a little sad so it was decided to pop a recon motor in. But I wanted something that would sit on the road and better than the little 918cc side valve motor could put out. So I bought a 948 and smoothcase gearbox for $150, with the thoughts of using it as an exchange motor. As it turn out, no one in my state really wanted to touch it for under $6K. So a long motor was sourced from interstate for $3575.00 delivered.[frame][/frame]

[Hunsta]

The motor came with a host of bits, so after evicting the 918 the old 948 and gearbox was set in place and if not somewhat over engineered mounts were made. I used a set of Minor engine mounts and cut them down to the appropiate height and then welded and gusseted plates to hold it in place.[frame][/frame]

[Hunsta]

I then used the cradle section of the Minor gearbox mount and using once again gussets and plates to support it to the original gearbox mount/chassis cross-member. I did this this way as putting a new cross-member in would have crowded that spot and left little room to run brake lines. Ive slotted the gussets so that the brake lines can run along the original position. And also if at any time the car need to be put back to original spec, it can be do so by cutting off the extended piece.[frame][/frame]

[Hunsta]

The final stage of the heart transplant will be to have the final drive which came with the motor to be shortened by 100mm to accommodate the fact that the track width of the Morris 8 ES is 100mm narrower than the Morris minor. I will get 3 axles done so as to have a spare just in case I break one. Yes I know. Alot of work, but it will be a much better driving car when finished with telescopic shocks and sway-bar. to enhance the handling on my bad aussie country roads.[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Lovely car - and nice colour. Have to say - I think you were ripped for the price of that engine and gearbox. It looks rough externally - is it ok internally? You should look for a rear axle from a Sprite/Midget - which is 4" narrower than the Minor axle - and will save you the dubious challenge of narrowing the Minor axle. Can you not simply use the 8E axle? At least that way the wheels will fit! The 948 doesn't really make much more power than the old sidevalve - surely that will be much much easier?

[Hunsta]

Firstly the motor you see is the one I paid $150 for. The new one is all wrapped up. It all new from the bottom up. And the crank has been tested for cracks. Actually it took 3 cranks to find one that didnt have cracks. I was just using this as I didn't have to use it as an exchange unit. And it saved me having to scratch the new one. As for the Sprite/Miget axle, they are a little hard to come by here in Australia.
As for the 8SE rear end, I was told the axles wouldn't take the extra power and I wanted to keep the ratios the same

[bmcecosse]

Ahh - I did wonder! Narrowing the Minor axle will not be easy - the casing easy enough - but cutting / welding the half shafts ??? And of course the 8E wheels won't fit. I would stay with the 8E axle - the power difference is not that much.

[Hunsta]

The diff housing and axles will be done by a company that specialises in doing this. The axles will be shortened and new splines cut.

[bmcecosse]

Won't be inexpensive....can't see the point myself. Good luck with it!

[philthehill]

Many thanks for the photos - very interesting and please keep us posted including photos of progress.
Phil