Don't ignore new rattles/creaking noises!

[svenedin]

I noticed a creaking noise coming from the front N/S suspension yesterday and thought it was probably something needing greasing so mentally added it to my to-do list.

This morning I was early at church for bell ringing so I decided to have a check whilst I waited. I opened the bonnet and gave the nearside wing some pushes down and sure enough the creaking noise was obvious. It seemed to be coming from the tie bar. I got under the car and to my horror I found the castle nut just about to fall off and no sign of the split pin.

Am I correct that I should just tighten the castle nut up until I can get a split pin in or is there some other way to determine how tight it should be? The rubber bushes are only a few months old (they were replaced when the car was at ESM). I don't like the look of the split pin on the other side either (corroded).

Stephen

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[philthehill]

I would remove the castellated nut, cupped washer and front tie bar rubber bush, smear every thing with rubber grease including the rear tie bar rubber bush. Re-fit the front tie bar rubber bush, the cupped washer and the castellated nut. Tighten the castellated nut till you can get the split pin through the tie bar. The cupped washer should then be up against the shoulder of the tie bar. If necessary tighten the castellated nut so that the cupped washer is against the tie bar shoulder.
Repeat the same on the other side.

[svenedin]

Thank you Phil. I will do as you suggest. Fixed for now just by tightening and a stainless steel split pin. No creaking. Other side has a corroded split pin. Now I don’t think the bushes were touched recently so perhaps I should replace them as a matter of course?

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[philthehill]

Replace the bushes with a poly bush to the front for braking and a rubber bush at the rear for articulation.
Just a few bits of useless information about tie rods:-
The Marina tie bar is the same length and diameter(s) and uses the same bolt to tie to the suspension arm. It is a much better piece of kit in that it has a fixed/welded flat washer to support the rear tie bar bush. The washer retaining the front bush front has a flat washer not cupped as per the Minor. The nut is retained by a 'R' clip.
If it was not for the fact that I use rose jointed adjustable tie rods I would be using Marina tie rods.
I would be covering the rust shown in the photos above with Fertan.

[svenedin]

Ok thank you. I must get some parts. Yes I must attend to the rust at the same time. It’s pretty superficial rust but agree it needs attention. I have various stuff on hand including Fertan.

I have never done anything with the tie bars myself before so I will have to read up on how to do it. In fact, I have never done any suspension jobs myself before.

[philthehill]

Replacing the tie bar rubbers is a reasonably easy job. Because the length of the tie bar is fixed you cannot upset the suspension.
Good luck.
Phil

[svenedin]

That's good to know. I'll go for it.

By the way what would have happened if the castle nut had come off completely when I was driving the car?

[philthehill]

At worst the suspension collapses because of the braking and movement forces acting on the lower suspension arm.
In reality I am certain you would have heard the tie rod clattering in the tie bar mount bracket and you would I am sure have stopped to find out what was happening.

[svenedin]

Good. Well fortunately, I did not ignore the new creaking noise and investigated before any danger. I am glad I did.

I can't find anything at all about removing the tie bar to change the bushes in either the Haynes manual or the BMC workshop manual. Can this be done with the car on the ground or does the the car need to be jacked up and the suspension supported? I am a complete novice with anything suspension related.

[philthehill]

The tie bar can be removed and the tie bar bushes replaced with the car on the ground. Better if the car is raised on car ramps and the steering on full lock so as to gain better access.

[svenedin]

The tie bar can be removed and the tie bar bushes replaced with the car on the ground. Better if the car is raised on car ramps and the steering on full lock so as to gain better access.

Marvellous. Thank you. I do have ramps

Would it make more sense to dispense with the castle nut/split pin and just use a Nylock? I may have a hunt for the Marina parts you mention.

I watched a video of a chap doing an old Mini tie bar and it looks reasonably straightforward. The chap in the video had the most problems with the yoke bolt which was absolutely seized with corrosion. I think I'll get under the car tomorrow and give those bolts a good squirt of PlusGas in anticipation of working on this next weekend.

I appreciate your patience with me on a BH weekend!

[philthehill]

I have used a Nylock nut in the past but as you already have the castellated nuts I would use them.
Coat everything in grease once fitted and you should have no further problems.

[svenedin]

Thanks for your help. I'll report back when the job is done which may be a few weeks depending on when parts arrive and I have the spare time.

Stephen

[svenedin]

I got under the car this morning to put PlusGas on the tie bar yoke bolts. The tie bars look in good order but the rubber bushes are quite tired.

I had the car on full lock and discovered a torn steering rack gaiter, leaking grease, that I did not know about.

Also discovered that the differential leak that has been dripping for some time appears to be coming from the nose of the diff.

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[panky]

Check the other end of the tie rod as well. I found the little bolt that secures it to the hub can rust, wear and become loose, ESM supply them along with the bushes. When re-fitting I found it easier to get the lock nut on the front end first a few threads then manoeuvre the hub end into position before tightening everything up.

[svenedin]

Check the other end of the tie rod as well. I found the little bolt that secures it to the hub can rust, wear and become loose, ESM supply them along with the bushes. When re-fitting I found it easier to get the lock nut on the front end first a few threads then manoeuvre the hub end into position before tightening everything up.

Thanks for the tip. Yes I looked at the other end and the securing nut is pretty rusty. I will clean everything up and refurbish, replace as necessary. I’ll give the tie bars a quick coat of paint after inspecting off the car. I have noticed that the bushes from ESM and elsewhere do not have the spigot in the middle as they should. I have sourced Superflex bushes that do have that locating spigot but I may find it’s too difficult to fit 2x poly bushes per side and go for one rubber and a front poly per side instead.

[myoldjalopy]

Replace the bushes with a poly bush to the front for braking and a rubber bush at the rear for articulation. That was (and always is!) Phil's advice.
When replacing the gaitor just cut/saw off the old-fashioned clip and replace with a plastic cable tie. Much easier.
You may find this thread helpful: viewtopic.php?p=664597&hilit=rubber+gaitor#p664597

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

That pinion oil seal wants seeing to. Can be done in half a day but you need a long breaker bar, socket and then a torque wrench to do it up again.

[svenedin]

That pinion oil seal wants seeing to. Can be done in half a day but you need a long breaker bar, socket and then a torque wrench to do it up again.

Thanks. Yes I’ll read up about how to do this and decide whether it’s a job I’m capable of doing. The oil has certainly helped to keep corrosion at bay!

I watched a video of a professional mechanic doing this and it does not look like an easy job. The mechanic had a real job getting the pinion-nut off and he had to fashion a tool to prevent the flange from moving. That kind of thing is probably beyond my ability.

[svenedin]

Replace the bushes with a poly bush to the front for braking and a rubber bush at the rear for articulation. That was (and always is!) Phil's advice.
When replacing the gaitor just cut/saw off the old-fashioned clip and replace with a plastic cable tie. Much easier.
You may find this thread helpful: viewtopic.php?p=664597&hilit=rubber+gaitor#p664597

Thanks I’ll read up about doing the gaiter. I don’t want to mess up the tracking because I can’t set it right again. I can see that ESM sell two variants, a more expensive one they list as "Nitrol" (sic). I presume they mean nitrile rubber which is more resistant to the effects of grease/oil and should last longer.