1098 10cc engine

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shivey
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1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

Hi all new on here but been a member for 20+ years renovating an engine i've had about for ages,i've got a brand new bmc boxed crank and its been rebored, question is,did the main bearing have locking tags,they have nuts holding them down not bolts,i have new nuts but can't find tags to suit 1098 standard are to small,they was none on it when i stripped it,also was there lock tags on the flywheel,none on it at the moment,help appreciated....Glyn
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

Glyn
No doubt you are aware that the 10CC engine has bigger main bearings at 2" instead of the normal 1098cc i.e. 10CG at 1.75" main bearings.

Is your new crankshaft the correct size/part number?

Looking at the MOSS Europe web site the 10CC engine was fitted with main bearing cap bolts Pt No: 12A1910 but it is not unusual for the 10CC engine to be played around with and replacing bolts with studs is acceptable.

The flywheel is also different in that the PCD of the flywheel securing bolts is different to the normal i.e. 10CG 1098cc engine.
The flywheel locking tabs Pt No: 12G612 are currently not available from MOSS Europe.

If you cannot get the tabs you require you can always Loctite the nuts/bolts in place which is perfectly acceptable provided you use the right grade of Loctite.

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

Yes,the crank has the same no,ive had it for 10 years or more when I stripped it ,it had no mains lock tabs,do you know if they ever had these,they have 11/16 head nuts holding the main brgs down,i have new nuts do yo think these only want loctite?. I had new nuts from West Sussex M,G.thanks for reply
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

What I would do is go back to West Sussex MG and ask the question.

Are the nuts flanged or plain?

What I would do though is fit ARP precision ground washers under the nuts (even if they are flanged or plain) as the nuts can eat into the cap and eventually become loose.

You may even be able to get new 10CC flywheel locking tabs from West Sussex MG.

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

Ive tried them ,they have nothing only flanged nuts not nylock ill try and get a photo on here,i'm an oldie so bear with me,what loctite would you use please?
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

Have a read of the attached articles:-

https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... ap-issues/

https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... plication/

I am heading towards 72 years of age so am still considered a re-cycled teenager even though I am falling apart :D

Phil

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

how do i get a picture from my files i'm 71 right on your tail :lol:
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

All I do is click on attachments, then click on add files, select the picture you want, click on open, the photo is taken from your file and attached to the post.
Select place in line, click on place in line, then submit and all is done. Picture comes up attached to the post.

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

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shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

bit big but got there the tags are for standard 1098 but they are too small no overhang to bend up ? as you can see not much thread for washers or tags.
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

Thank you for posting the photos.
In my opinion those nuts are not man enough to hold the main caps firmly in place. Plus the studs are not protruding above the nuts by 1.5 threads which they should be.
I would suggest that the main cap bolts have been replaced by studs which appear not to be the right ones for the application.
I would suggest that you investigate the fitment of the studs before proceeding further.
I would replace the studs and nuts with ones manufactured by ARP. They are of a good tensile strength and more than suitable for the job in hand.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARP-MAIN-STU ... SwWxJeLh9f
They are the type of studs/nuts/washers you require but I note from your post above that the studs fitted to your block are 11/16".

Because the flywheel bolts are further apart the 1098cc 10CG flywheel locking tabs are never going to fit.

I also note that the flywheel has a adapter fitted in its centre possibly for a Ford Type 9 gearbox?

Phil

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

this engine came out of a 65 midget also have a 10cg engine out of a 64 sprite,i'm a hoarder, both had the 295 heads the new nuts i have had from east sussex mg were listed for this engine but no tags listed .The car was a runner with a 1275 box fitted to it as it had the reverse light switch on it,i've just rebuilt a box with as many new parts that I could get hold of the adaptor in the crank is the spigot bearing,like i said before only the nuts were on the mains,you suggest I get some arp bolts to hold the mains in,who would i get them from?...i'll take some more pics got a few projects going,my main car which i hardly use now is my 1960 convertable 1275 with ford type 9 in,i did it back in 1998 goes really well well with 1275 diff fitted,the studs are 7/16 a 11/16 socket fits the head sorry
Last edited by shivey on Thu Apr 09, 2020 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

I can see ebay atachment i'll strip 1 stud out make sure its same size as 1098 bolt
shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

the piece in the flywheel does look like an adaptor but its a brand new crank
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philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

Thank you for removing a main cap and the flywheel. I can now see the centre boss is part of the crankshaft and not an adapter.

7/16" UNF is the correct thread in the block for the main bearing cap securing bolts/studs.

I still would not be happy with the current stud and nut arrangement. The new nuts (and the old) certainly do not look man enough to do the job.

You will be able to obtain a set of ARP bolts/studs, washers and nuts from Peter May Engineering nr Droitwich Worcestershire.

https://www.petermayengineering.com/

A good company that knows what it is doing.

Phil
Last edited by philthehill on Thu Apr 09, 2020 8:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

I'll order the set from AUS..in the meantime i'm playing with a rebored 1098 block ive got mini flat top pistons and 3 inch metro rods...do I use 1098 crank to make a 998 engine 10 thou over but thats what i would like a go at....thanks for the Advise''the studs are7/16 nuts fit a 11/16 socket sorry for the mix up there
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

As regards your re-bored 1098cc block etc.

If you want to make a 998cc in line engine I find that it is better to use a 948cc block bored to 998cc, a Minor 948cc crankshaft, Minor 1098cc fully floating con rods (same as 998cc Cooper), 998cc dished or flat topped pistons. If you do not use a high performance camshaft there is no need to fit white metal bearings in the camshaft bearing housings.

Some of the Metro engines used 1.75" big ends so you need to make sure what size crank they fitted.

Phil

shivey
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

thanks for that Phil,what is the max a 950 engine can be bored to?
philthehill
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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by philthehill »

If you re-bore the 948cc cylinder to 2.6" internal dia (using 998cc pistons plus 0.060") that will give an overall capacity of 1050cc.
I personally would go no higher in capacity.

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Re: 1098 10cc engine

Post by shivey »

thanks for that I have a set of +40 new flat tops so next project i've a 10 thou undersize recon crank and a 1098 midget cam 295 head i'll post some pics tomorrow..thanks for all the help
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