After my previous half baked attempts at mating Metro seats to a Minor using Newton Commercial bases I'm now hatching a plan to use a universal seat base to accomodate a variety of seats (should I find some nice leather ones in the future ).
Newtons bases wern't ideal because of two reasons.
1. too narrow for metro runners
2. no space for rear passengers feet.
I want to run an idea past you lot. Basically it's two transversly mounted L shaped steel plates that sit on the sills and transmition tunnel. The L would be inverted so the vertical section is below and cut away from the sill and shaped around the transmition tunnel. I know it would be ideal because it accomodates any width of runner and allows the seat to be positioned perfectly fore and aft and transversly to allow for seat width, seatbelt reels etc. I but I can't work out how to fit it to the sills causing the minimum of disruption to the structure of the car and carpets. The best idea I can come up with is to weld short sections of threaded rod (say M10) to the sills and cut the carpet round them. would a weld the size of an M10 be strong enough to hold the seat? Obviously you don't want a situation where the seat breaks free in an accident but the minor does has seats that would fall forward anyway .
More Metro Seats
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- Minor Legend
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More Metro Seats
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- Minor Friendly
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RE: More Metro Seats
the m10 thread should be fine but just for extra strength could you not also use the mounting holes from the old seats and bolt through the new plate into that ? Also in the event of an accident on the old seats the seat belt would stop the seat tipping ( providing they are fitted of course)
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RE: More Metro Seats
You may find it easier & better to weld a nut to the sill rather than welding threaded rod. Then you can use bolts to fix it.
If you wanted a really neat flush job do it the same way you'd repair a seat belt retaining nut... Ray put an excellent description of that on here many moons ago but if you can't find it let me know & I'll try to give you an accurate description.
Dan
If you wanted a really neat flush job do it the same way you'd repair a seat belt retaining nut... Ray put an excellent description of that on here many moons ago but if you can't find it let me know & I'll try to give you an accurate description.
Dan
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RE: More Metro Seats
Pete,
How about making a universal frame based on the existing Moggy seat. i.e. use the front bar and rear two U shaped sections (cut down obviously) and weld some flat bar (or inverted L or box section) to the top to create a 'square' frame to bolt any seat to.
Then you have the Minor style tilt if you need rear access and you don't have to worry about mounts.
How about making a universal frame based on the existing Moggy seat. i.e. use the front bar and rear two U shaped sections (cut down obviously) and weld some flat bar (or inverted L or box section) to the top to create a 'square' frame to bolt any seat to.
Then you have the Minor style tilt if you need rear access and you don't have to worry about mounts.
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- Minor Legend
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I'm not keen on that idea because the Minor seats are only fastened at the front. Modern seats are a lot more heavy and would only add to the mass that the seatbelt has to stop in the event of an accident. Also I'm not convinced the sliding mechanism would work too well without proper location at all four coners.How about making a universal frame based on the existing Moggy seat
Yes! of course! i knew there was some better method. That way there is plenty of space for a weld without it fouling the height.You may find it easier & better to weld a nut to the sill rather than welding threaded rod
Cheers
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
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Up to you of course, but the difference in mass of the seat would be less than if a fat person were drivingPeetee wrote:I'm not keen on that idea because the Minor seats are only fastened at the front. Modern seats are a lot more heavy and would only add to the mass that the seatbelt has to stop in the event of an accident. Also I'm not convinced the sliding mechanism would work too well without proper location at all four coners.
Also, if you made the frame rigid then the sliders should work fine. But I guess it's more work to get it right though.
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I see what yer getting at but bear in mind I'm 1 1/2 stone over my racing weight. I still eat what the heck I like thoughless than if a fat person were driving
Muhahahahah
I'm still a foreigner to the art of welding so that sort of a job is well out the question at the mo.But I guess it's more work to get it right though.
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Yes, cheers Barry. I have a four door so the tilt isn't necessary. And my comment about welding still stands. my bar idea only involves welding four nuts to the sills in locations that should be fairly easy to mark out. It's a time thing again. Keep it simple - I think I might be able to cope with that.
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.