Engine mounting issues.

[akuchanny]

Yep timing was the issue. I pulled the Dizzy, to put it on the bench and check out the electromic igintion module. Wish I hadn't now…..

I have tried it 180 degrees and still havent been able to get the dizzy to sit into the block. The tabs will line up but the shaft wont push fully down. I will try again with daylight but any ideas as to why the dizzy wont fit in at either 180 position?

Andy

[bmcecosse]

Only because the drive dog is not engaging correctly - twist the rotor arm as you gently push the dizzy into place. I assume you have the clamp plate fitted round the collar on the base of the dizzy. If you left it attached to the block then it has probably moved off-centre.

[liammonty]

As above - possible the clamp plate is very slightly off-centre. It really shouldn't be too tough to figure out what's up in the daylight.

[akuchanny]

Hey Guys, Well the Drive cog seemed to want me to go back to the non working timing. So I pulled it from the block and rotated it 180 degrees so it then matched the rota arm position. Then once all back together slackend off the calmp and the dizzy pushed home slotting into the drive gear. Have test driven the car, am still not 100 percent happy with the angle of the engine, so will try to cut the chassis and get rid of the nuts under the mount plates. Hopefully this will make it a happily running car. It was a bit smokey, so I have flushed the oil system and changed the oil, although didnt have a new filter so will get one ASAP. I am noping at worst it could just be the rubber valve seals that will need replacing. The engine does't seem to be leaking oil from the front plate, but the rocker gasket needs to be changed as it is soaked in oil, no doubt helped by the angle its sitting at.

I have to tune it and re time it again but ran out of day light so will get on that tomorrow. Just lucky I am not on a contract at the moment as its giving me time to sort this out.

Dan passed by today and said hello as well, it was great to put a face to the post.

Will keep you posted once its timed up and if I have to change the angle of the engine.

Andy

[akuchanny]

Okay So the minor is back in one piece. Its driving and the steering rack seems free from the engine. It does need to be pulled aaprt again, but this will have to wait, until the new year. One of the radiator bolts has gone missing, the engine angle still needs to be addressed for peice of mind.

I will let you know if I end up in any trouble, or if its all going okay. But its a relife to have it running again.

[panky]

Phew, bit of a marathon but glad it's useable again

[bmcecosse]

Hope it works out ok ! I dunno why you felt the need to turn the drive shaft - all you had to do was to move the plug leads round two places.

[akuchanny]

I had tried the plug switch and for some reason it still wouldn't start, so thought if i kept the rota arm in the position and the plugs in the position it was firing it, then the drive shaft could be turned. It took 5 mins but I will keep an eye on it to see if there is another underlying problem

It is good to have it on the road, need to do a few test runs then thursday have a long drive to a job interview 4 hour round trip so fingers crossed it all works out.

[bmcecosse]

Good luck with the job interview - but I suggest a good long test run before setting off - or probably best to borrow/hire a reliable car for the day. Not too impressive if you turn up late with oil spattered hands/face/clothing.....

[akuchanny]

Very true, and thanks, thought I would try a part time staff job away from being fully freelance for a while. Although tried sorting the "other car" and that is being even more of a problem child so will havce to try a few test runs, and fingers crossed. If worst comes to it, I plan to break down the day before and abuse the onward travel part of my breakdown cover. Luckily its a role that needs you to be technical (in a different field) and a bit of teaching too, so the oil splattered look may help, who knows! Ill keep you posted on how the test runs go over the next few days. Just finished the oil flush and tuning it today, so will check the timing and how its running.

[akuchanny]

Weell driving through london traffic this evening the car ran well. The only issue I am currently having is getting it to idle well, its bouncing between 400 rpm and 900 I have tired to set it at around 900, and it kept cutting out. Have set the mixture and the car is picking up, acelertaing and driving well, even with the engine angle, although this will be changed when I get some more time. Any ideas why the engine is doing this? could it be down to timing? or is it a carb issue? it will idle happily at 1500 rpm with the choke on its third pull, but this seems far to fast for idle. fast idle is not doing anything and the second stage pull seems to only do barely anything also. The cable is tight and the choke unit moves with each pull.

I have also found 2nd gear now almost constantly pops out and is a bit of an DONT SWEAR OR YOU WILL BE BANNED. So the gear box will be next on the agenda when I have more time and money. I have a shortened type 9 5 speed that just needs a fitting kit, although have been looking at the 6 and 5 speed mazda units as they are lighter. (I know the 4 speed is lighter still, but I do a fair amount of motorway miles in the car, and the extra ratio will help with noise, fuel, and strain on the car)

Things are looking good for the trip on thursday.

[bmcecosse]

Possibly an air leak for the idling issue. Or tight throttle cable. The 'choke' should not be needed or used after the first few seconds running from cold. And check there is a little oil in the carb damper.

[akuchanny]

I thought that it could possibly an air leak, I will check the throttle cable. instead of the normal two to three pulls on the choke its taking four to start. Definately has oil in the dash pot. Was planing on swapping the hif38 that I have been using for a rebuilt hif44 as I have a feeling that the 38 may be due a rebuild. I will check all that out over the weekend hopefully.

[akuchanny]

Okay, so I made the 200 mile round trip. Only issues where that the top of my K&N air filter decided it wanted to go on a permanent holiday somewhere near Southampton, so after a patch of gaffer tape, some string and elastic bands, the filter which luckily stayed with me was attached, awful running on the way home but it got me there. Well almost…..

About 5 mins left of the journey and my old nemesis fuel vaporisation arrived after about an 30 mins or so of stop start traffic. This is something that has plagued me since installing a 1275 (any of the engines that have been in the car) does anyone have any ideas how I can stop this? as its so bad it brings the car to standstill. I wasn't able to switch on the fans and pull the bonnet release (i have bonnet straps) to aid cooling this time as the air mixture issue was already making the car less than easy to drive.

I have tried a large heat shield in the past, which didn't do anything, as the exhaust manifold heats up to such an extent that the fuel vaporises even with this fitted (I haven't bother this time around) any ideas would be great, as in summer the car will be horrendous with this issue, as it is already suffering.

Andy

[bmcecosse]

I would be surprised if it's fuel Vapours in this weather...do you hear the pump chattering away 19 to the dozen? The answer is to relocate the pump much lower down in the engine bay - or convert to the mechanical pump on the side of the block - or mount a 'pusher' pump at the rear, low down near the tank.

[Declan_Burns]

Vapour locking is a major problem on MG T series cars although I have never had any problems with it. My mate is plagued by this problem on his TD. When the engine is switched off after a good run. He has to pull full choke to restart it. It coughs and splutters for a few seconds and then everything is fine when driving. One thing the MG guys do to prevent the vapour locking is to have the exhaust manifold ceramic coated which seems to work. I have no idea what it costs. These guys would never shift the pump. The vapour locking was probably one of the reasons when the MG TF was introduced, the pump was shifted to the rear as Roy has mentioned above and the problem was eliminated.

Regards
Declan

[bmcecosse]

I can't see how 'pulling the choke' can help with true vapour locking!

[Declan_Burns]

Roy,
It baffles me as well but it works on the MGT's.
Regards
Declan

[akuchanny]

I looked into ceramic coating it was very expensive. So I will see about relocating the pump. It is chattering away at 19 to the dozen, and the exhaust manifold is over heating, which is too retarded timing I'm guessing.

I did fit the hif44 today but it ran awfully over revved, hunted and would have been undrivable. luckily a neighbour donated a large air filter cone he wasn't using so have Heath Robinson'd this to the K&N back plate that was on the carb and foil tapped it so its air tight. Now I have an oversize air filter that 'just fits' but a hif38 that is working, and allows the car to be driveable. Until I can replace the air filter.

Any ideas with the hif44 would be so awful? I was sure that with such a big valve head and on a 1275 it would have been a better choice of carb.

Also to my horror today have noticed I have a snapped exhaust manifold stud. I am hoping its no flush, but if it is I am guessing a machine shop will be the best option for its rescue. its one of the studs that holds the carb in (closest to the bulk head).

I am looking forward to a calamity free day with the car sometime soon…… I hope….

[liammonty]

It's not just a case of changing the carb. Do you have any idea what needle your HIF44 has in it? Or your HIF38 for that matter? They will need setting up - preferably on a rolling road, but in the first instance you need to make sure that you've got something approaching the correct profile needle. Changing the air filter is also going to make a difference. The HIF44 will be ideal, but only if it's set up properly!

How do you know the exhaust manifold is overheating? If you suspect the timing is that far out you really need to sort that. If it is overheating, that is likely the cause of any potential fuel vapourisation. You really need to get the engine properly set up before worrying about fixing other issues, as poor set up could well be the cause of other problems you are experiencing.

Also, i really would be loathe to do long journeys with neither the carb nor the timing set, as the risk of damaging the engine (burning out valves, holing pistons) etc. is quite high. I would get it set up to something close to where it should be as a matter of priority.