Door alignment
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- Minor Legend
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Door alignment
I’m struggling with this a little. When my door hinge bolts are done up tight the door sits slightly too high in the door aperture so that the top of the window frame rubs the underside of the roof. If I loosen the bolts the door drops slightly and fits absolutely perfectly. Just wondered if anyone else has had the same issue and been able to fix without major surgery? I may be able to adjust window frame slightly but reluctant to do that if there’s an obvious solution. I’m not sure the hinge captive plates will fall any further inide the A post. Presume the countersink bolt shoulders are causing the problem? All views much appreciated. Thanks!
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Re: Door alignment
try making some spacers to fit between the hinge and frame may work,
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Door alignment
Minor parts suppliers have special shims for this purpose. For example:
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/shim
Don
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/search/shim
Don
Re: Door alignment
A word of caution , if fitting shims to the hinges. On no account should you remove all the bolts for an individual hinge without making provision to "hold onto " the captive plate that lurks unseen , behind the A post or B post. The "ledge " inside the door post frequently
rusts away completely and there will a thud as the plate drops to the base of the post. Major surgery / welding is required to get inside
the enclosed door post to fix the problem ! Avoid , avoid , avoid.
The link Don kindly flagged for you , shows a slot in the shim on both items. This will allow you to slip the shim behind the hinge without
removing one of the bolts , thereby keeping hold of the captive plate. Tighten enough to grip the shim but still allow movement. The remaining bolts can then be fully removed for installation purposes. If you make your own , either incorporate a slot or use a bent bit of wire coat hanger to "hook " the captive plate as you bolt back the shim and hinge.
Hinges bolts are often reluctant to budge , so a solid whack with a large hammer on the bolt head and application of releasing fluid a day or two before you start will probably be time well spent.
Once you're happy with the alignment , fully tighten all the bolts.
Good luck with it.
Bob
rusts away completely and there will a thud as the plate drops to the base of the post. Major surgery / welding is required to get inside
the enclosed door post to fix the problem ! Avoid , avoid , avoid.
The link Don kindly flagged for you , shows a slot in the shim on both items. This will allow you to slip the shim behind the hinge without
removing one of the bolts , thereby keeping hold of the captive plate. Tighten enough to grip the shim but still allow movement. The remaining bolts can then be fully removed for installation purposes. If you make your own , either incorporate a slot or use a bent bit of wire coat hanger to "hook " the captive plate as you bolt back the shim and hinge.
Hinges bolts are often reluctant to budge , so a solid whack with a large hammer on the bolt head and application of releasing fluid a day or two before you start will probably be time well spent.
Once you're happy with the alignment , fully tighten all the bolts.
Good luck with it.
Bob
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Door alignment
Thanks guys for your replies. An excellent suggestion to use shim(s). And I’ll take extra care to stop hinge captive plates falling inside th A post!
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Door alignment
Well I did a lot of fiddling last weekend and the door sits pretty well now, except for when the new door seal is also fitted. I have the green fabric type and the rubber does seem a bit hard - and the door doesn’t shut well near the bottom. I think there is a black rubber alternative which although not original I wondered if it might be more pliable/softer. Grateful for any views on that?
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Door alignment
Used a fabric ‘ type ‘ on mine and had the same issues you are experiencing . No amount of adjusting would enable the doors to shut without ( in my opinion ) excessive force ) . It started red but soon faded . Changed it for the black rubber style and now doors shut perfectly and no fading ( obviously ) .
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Door alignment
You might have to 'set' the flange that the seal fits on. I did.
Alan
Alan
Re: Door alignment
MMOC Post Of The Weekmogbob wrote: ↑Tue May 08, 2018 12:34 pm A word of caution , if fitting shims to the hinges. On no account should you remove all the bolts for an individual hinge without making provision to "hold onto " the captive plate that lurks unseen , behind the A post or B post. The "ledge " inside the door post frequently
rusts away completely and there will a thud as the plate drops to the base of the post. Major surgery / welding is required to get inside
the enclosed door post to fix the problem ! Avoid , avoid , avoid.
The link Don kindly flagged for you , shows a slot in the shim on both items. This will allow you to slip the shim behind the hinge without
removing one of the bolts , thereby keeping hold of the captive plate. Tighten enough to grip the shim but still allow movement. The remaining bolts can then be fully removed for installation purposes. If you make your own , either incorporate a slot or use a bent bit of wire coat hanger to "hook " the captive plate as you bolt back the shim and hinge.
Hinges bolts are often reluctant to budge , so a solid whack with a large hammer on the bolt head and application of releasing fluid a day or two before you start will probably be time well spent.
Once you're happy with the alignment , fully tighten all the bolts.
Good luck with it.
Bob
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