info please on 1275

Post by **Cam** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 10:31 am

Slower revving?? no, certainly not. the 1275 Midget engine should cope up to 6000 RPM no problems. In fact I have seen balanced race ones rev past 8000 RPM with no problems.

The 1098 has a longer stroke than the 1275 and so is more prone to problems when revd high, so the 1275 is a much better bet if you want a 'revvy' engine.

When you say "slower reving" do you mean the time taken for the engine to reach the desired rev when you plant your foot?? if so, then it is usually an incorrectly set up carb. If you want to rev faster than you do now (and everything is OK with the engine) then you could always fit a lightened flywheel, but that is at the expense of slightly rougher running (especially at tickover)

Post by **RussLCV** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 7:58 pm

Nick

Any chance of e-mailling some photos please??

Post by **Willie** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 9:20 pm

Perhaps you mean by 'slower revving' that the engine uses
less revs at any given speed than the 1098?? If so,yes,
due to the different rear axle ratio.

Post by **Cam** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 10:50 pm

Willie, according to nicksden:

all other drive train is original.

So, they should be be comparable like for like if they were both running through the same transmission?

Or did you mean comparing a 1098 Minor to a 1275 Midget?

Post by **Cam** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:27 pm

she is fitted with 1275 midget engine which i have not run on to a 1098 gear box and 1098 back axle.

So, what gearbox and axle are you using?

With regard to the actual revolutions produced by the engine, the 1275 should be capable of the same as the 1098 or slightly more.

she has also been fitted with marina discs and shocks on the front as well as the orginal damper units why?

The discs to prevent brake fade during heavy and repeated braking. The marina shock absorbers because they do a far better job than the orignial lever arm dampers. The reason that the originals are still there is because they form the top suspension arm which is then bolted into the bulkhead. You will probably find that they have had the pressure valve removed so that they don't actually act as shock absorbers but only as link arms.

The conversion kit for the 5-speed Ford box is about £350 (excluding the actual gearbox). Whether or not it is easy to fit depends upon your mechanical ability. It's not that difficult but lining the thrust bearing up needs a bit of messing about as mine was miles out and I needed to make a new pivot.

Post by **Willie** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 10:49 pm

makes you wonder how such a vehicle,which has had so
much work done on it was allowed to rot away? All that
effort wasted

Post by **rabiddog** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 6:04 pm

Cam Wrote;
Quote:
she is fitted with 1275 midget engine which i have not run on to a 1098 gear box and 1098 back axle.

So, what gearbox and axle are you using?

I think there shoul be a commer after run, so it basically saying the engine hasn't been run since nick got it but its driving on the gearbox and back axle of the original 1098.

May be wrong though

Craig

Post by **Cam** » Sat Jun 28, 2003 2:15 am

OK, then, (thanks Craig!)

If it is a 1275 mated to the 1098 gearbox and axle (4.22 ratio) it should be capable (at least) of the same RPM (and therefore top speed) as the 1098 engine. My standard 1098 engine would propel my car quite happily to 85MPH, so if yours will only do 60MPH with a 1275 then I would say that the engine tuning is at fault and not the drive train.

Post by **Cam** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 11:10 pm

The carb should not cause slow running. I used to use a 1 1/2" SU on my Mini 1293 engine which produced about 80-90 BHP.