Sorry to ask such basic questions, but I don't want to risk damage to my new car!
If I'm using a trolley jack, exactly where are the strong points at the front and rear of the car? And then having raised the end, where on the axle should the stands go, just behind the wheel or midway between wheel and differential?
Jacking points
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Always jack up with a piece of wood inbetween the jack and the car as it stops damage and slipping.
At the front, jack up on the chassis rails (the two long box sections that the lower suspension is bolted to). Jack up at the front of the rail and put the axle stand around where the lower suspension mounts to the chassis rail.
At the rear, jack up on the axle tube/diff housing/spring mounting plate (of you can). and place the axle stand on the axle tube as close to the wheel as you can without squashing any brake pipes.
At the front, jack up on the chassis rails (the two long box sections that the lower suspension is bolted to). Jack up at the front of the rail and put the axle stand around where the lower suspension mounts to the chassis rail.
At the rear, jack up on the axle tube/diff housing/spring mounting plate (of you can). and place the axle stand on the axle tube as close to the wheel as you can without squashing any brake pipes.
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It's generally advisable to avoid actually jacking at the jacking point; unless you're really certain of the points' structural integrity; it tends to disintegrate....
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The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
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...and whatever you do, make sure you put a couple of spare tires undeneath the car in case the jacking point decides to disintegreate.
And of course, NEVER go under the can just on a jack supporting it...
And of course, NEVER go under the can just on a jack supporting it...
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thanks, all
So if I need to raise the whole of the rear, say to paint the underside, do I need to jack up each corner individually and put a stand under it or is there a point in the middle where I can jack up the whole rear end?
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You CAN jack the rear up on the bottom of the diff housing and then CAREFULLY put an axle stand under each axle tube as close as you can to the wheels (for stability). You can also do one at a time, but if I have to raise the entire rear end I jack up on the diff casing.
But make sure the car is on level ground, chock the front wheels, take the handbrake off and use a piece of wood in between the jack and the diff.
But make sure the car is on level ground, chock the front wheels, take the handbrake off and use a piece of wood in between the jack and the diff.
If using a bottle jack or something with a small top on it to jack on the chassis rails, make sure you do use a piece of wood (or something to spread the load) Even with a trolly jack I always jack where the tiebar mounts to the chassis as its stronger.
The chassis is not solid so jacking in the middle of the beam buckles the bottom of the rail making it concave. The drain holes are in the middle of the rail and if that is pushed up the water can't drain out the holes so it sits along the edges - and rusts.
The chassis is not solid so jacking in the middle of the beam buckles the bottom of the rail making it concave. The drain holes are in the middle of the rail and if that is pushed up the water can't drain out the holes so it sits along the edges - and rusts.
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