1000 Air filter modification

[fasthamster]

Hello fellow Mogs (hope that's acceptable etiquette),

I am a MMOC forum newbie looking for some advice on how to upgrade my air filter on my 1968 Morris Minor 1000 engine.
The pancake style air filter does not work because it does not have an inlet hole for the breather pipe from the crankcase cover.

So, am I best staying with the standard build or are there upgrade options. Any advice welcome

[Declan_Burns]

I prefer cone filters as opposed to pancake. It is easy to drill a hole and solder in a piece of copper pipe, as in the photo, to connect the breather pipe.
Regards
Declan

[philthehill]

I have to ask why do you want to upgrade the air cleaner?
Other than looks there is little to be achieved by changing the air filter to an after market type
Only if you carry out or have carried out additional performance modifications can you expect to benefit from replacing the air filter.
Phil

[fasthamster]

Thanks chaps. I have not made any mods to the engine but I guess assumed that a more modern air filter would help the engine to breathe better and cleaner. Maybe not so, so another job ticked off the list !

[edd_barker]

Will make it louder!

You could cut your combined manifold, removing the inlet section and fit a classic mini alloy manifold, they are pretty cheap and most will have a vacuum take-off. Assuming you don't have a servo you could use that for the rocker breather? Unless others have tried and found that vacuum too strong...

That will eliminate the hotspot and with a carb adjust could possibly maybe give you a tiny bit more oomph.

Personally I would keep original air intake, nice paint job on it and put a 'cooper' sticker on. This will give an extra 5PHP (placebo horse power) for a few quid!

Edd

[fasthamster]

Thanks Ed, learn't a trick there ! I'll go with the placebo effect

[edd_barker]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130908625076

Would look pretty smart on a classic minor filter box!

The manifold cutting does work, but probably best left until other mods. Cutting the cast iron will also make the biggest mess you have ever seen! My entire face bar goggles was black as coal.

Edd

[charlie_morris_minor]

It might be worth reading the book "Tuning the A-Series Engine" by David Vizard, it gives lots of information on tuning the A series engine and includes before and after test results so you can see the difference each change makes ( from what i recall it was 20 + years ago that i read the book)

The book covers the splitting of the manifold as suggested by edd and covers the pros and conns of the conversion.

Of course in the mean while you could stick on the speedwell stickers which must be worth at least 10php if the standard cooper stickers release 5php.

[philthehill]

Whilst the Vizard book contains a lot of information a lot of it is superfluous unless serious tuning is to be undertaken.

Below is a link to a basic tuning book that has a lot of sensible information and does not swamp the reader with information that will never be used.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tuning-The-Cl ... SwZQRYc9DM

This book combines 'Tuning A Mini' and 'More Mini Tuning' by Clive Tricky.

If you find yourself with plenty of spare time here is a selection of publications relative to tuning the 'A' Series.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=61780&p=567112&hili ... ns#p567112

[panky]

I found this Kieth Calver article very informative and it confirmed what I found when I fitted a K&N to my 1098.

http://www.calverst.com/air-filtration/

I did the drilled air box mod and it worked, although I do have a Mini HS4 and matching air box fitted.

[MikeNash]

Dear Hamster,

The standard intake is often criticised for its restricted airflow and great claims (exaggerated in my opinion) made for after market replacements. See the curves below obtained from my standard 1098 Trav running with a standard air intake system. (Sorry I can't rotate it - I've just learnt how to resize to get the website to accept it.) The top curve is the pressure drop in inches of water seen at full throttle at any speed and the lower one the pressure drop at a steady speed on level ground. The max loss is only 6.5 inches of water obtained at full throttle at maximum speed i.e. about 75 mph.

Taking the pressure loss at these low values as equating to about the power loss you suffer, you're loosing about 1.6% power, and that only at maximum speed. Anything less and the loss is a lot lower. Altogether it's not much and I don't think you'll notice it.

If you wish to prevent this loss you can remove the filter cover and hold the paper element on with a large washer (about 3 inches in diameter) a piece of tubing over the retaining bolt and the wing nut on top. The air filter itself, even if dirty, only gives about 1/4 of an inch pressure loss - and you'll have lots of delightful noise!

Regards, MikeN.

Trav airflow resized 21feb2017.jpg (33.58 KiB) Viewed 2805 times