Dynamo

Post by **ian.mcdougall** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:23 pm

Yes it is, will try the adjusting route will I need a Meter to adjust or just go by trial and error
Ian

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:27 pm

Well - a meter would be handy - but just try tiny adjustments and note carefully what you do - so you can get back to square 1 if you need to!

Post by **ian.mcdougall** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:29 pm

Will do
Thanks for info bmc
Ian

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:36 pm

Plenty on ebay - v cheap too - although most are 'spade' type, not so many 'screw' type.

Post by **nigelr2000** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:38 pm

The workshop manual has instructions covering the calibration and servicing of the regulator, if you don't have one it might be worth a pm to BMCecosse as I believe he has the relevant pages from the manual somewhere

Post by **PSL184** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:41 pm

New screw terminal regs are £17 from Bully....

Post by **littleblackflash** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:42 pm

Do I need to adjust mine so at idle it clicks out?

When I start mine, it takes a second or 2 until the light goes out. If it clicks out at idle, will the light come back on?

Post by **nigelr2000** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:44 pm

not really so long as it pops up when the engine stops it will be fine, best leave alone if its working OK

Post by **ian.mcdougall** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:44 pm

Already got manual on computer from bmc link thanks, would like to return to screw terminal reg at some stage so will prob look for one whilst also looking for spare engine as would like to recon my engine but not sure about my block as studs are suspect in block
Ian

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:44 am

Ssshhhh! Don't say that - 'they' get upset - best to scrub that bit out !!
If the idle speed is low - then yes the contact should drop out to prevent reverse current. Best way to tell of course is with a good old ammeter - if it's showing a big discharge at idle - then it needs adjusting to make it drop out.

Post by **Morris57** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:58 pm

Well everything is Hunky Dory with the Dynamo,and after replacing the regulator its working fine.

Thanks for all the help from everyone,car is now ready for the MOT after 20 years of slumber.After replacing the seized engine and all the braking system.

Wish me luck hope everythings OK!

Thanks again

Craig

Post by **nigelr2000** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:08 am

Good Luck

Post by **littleblackflash** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:33 pm

The problem is not solved

I took the car to the Goodwood breakfast club and afterwards for a quick drive. The charging red light kept coming on just, ie a bit faint.

The battery voltage may be a little low from not using the car for 4 weeks but it was fine starting. Could this be an influence?

To save you reading all the above posts, I have a new regulator, dynamo bushes and bulb in the red light. Wiring checked, and checked again.

Any adjustment needed within the regulator?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:01 pm

Dynamo - new bushes - or brushes ? We need to know the battery volts when it's running fast idle. Assume also that the fan belt is good and tight ?

Post by **littleblackflash** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:23 pm

Belt is tight, but not over tight.
I will measure the voltage at the weekend. The car is stored at my Mothers house. What should it be?

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:27 pm

At fast idle it should be close to 14volts. The light will not come on if the system is charging, regardless of battery voltage, as it is the charge from the dynamo that puts the light out, not the battery voltage...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:47 pm

Well - it's the voltage from the dynamo back feeding to the ignition circuit that puts the light off! So - it needs to be equal to the battery volts for no glow - but IF somehow the dynamo is generating - but the connection back to the battery has failed - then the light can glow due to higher dynamo volts pushing current through the light - into the Ign circuit!

Post by **PSL184** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:52 am

Yes, it would have to be a failed connection back to the battery in this case. Otherwise, if connected correctly, the battery voltage would equal the charge from the dynamo and the light would be out. May be it is just that simple - a dirty connection?

Post by **littleblackflash** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:14 pm

Sorry for taking so long to get back with the measured voltages, I've not used the car over the winter but she did start first time today and ran beautifuly. Except my charging light is still on - just.

Battery voltage =
Measure with engine off but still connected - 12.4v
Measure with engine at idle - 12.2v

Just to recap - I have a new regulator and brushes in the dynamo. Regulator contact bit inside does not open when the engine is idling.

Any ideas how far I could drive with the charge light just on?

Post by **PSL184** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:24 pm

Does the regulator open when you fast idle?
What is the voltage at fast idle? At normal tickover it will always be close to battery voltage and the light will glow dim (unless you up the idle speed a bit).
When you replaced the brushes in the dynamo did you clean the commutator too?

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