Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me. I am having to replace most of the o/s sill on my 1966 traveller, having discovered the outer floor, sill and jacking point to be held on with pop rivets then carefully painted with liquid rubber. I have discovered in my research that the traveller has an extra strengthening piece inside the sill so I sent for one from ESM. As i look down on the sill from above, it is slightly curved however the strengthening piece I have received is dead straight so I'm not sure about fitting it. Can anyone help with a diagram maybe?
Thanks Pete
replacing traveller sills
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Re: replacing traveller sills
is it the boxing plate to the inner sill you are looking at and the curve if you look from above? If so the boxing plate takes the curve easily enough when you clamp it on.
Re: replacing traveller sills
Hi Kevin, thanks for the reply. It is not the boxing plate that worries me, its the extra strengthening piece that goes behind it which is dead straight. I'm not sure where to fit it exactly.
Pete
Pete
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Re: replacing traveller sills
If the inner sill strengthener has rusted away then you must have a seriously rusty Traveller. It attaches inside the section of the sill which is inside the car and (generally) covered by carpet and to which the seatbelt bolts into. You can't really replace the inner strengthener without replacing the inner sill itself - which hopefully you don't need to? Without quite a bit of dismantling you cannot even see this panel. The Convertible model is also strengthened in this way.
If you DO need to replace this, then you have a very big and complicated job on your hands. Most of us faced with a car that bad maybe would consider it beyond diy repair? I restored my own Traveller many years ago when it became very rusty but I didn't have to replace that section.
Have you dismantled your car already? If you have then you'll see where that panel goes and if you haven't, what makes you think it requires replacing?
If you DO need to replace this, then you have a very big and complicated job on your hands. Most of us faced with a car that bad maybe would consider it beyond diy repair? I restored my own Traveller many years ago when it became very rusty but I didn't have to replace that section.
Have you dismantled your car already? If you have then you'll see where that panel goes and if you haven't, what makes you think it requires replacing?
Re: replacing traveller sills
I have got the traveller dismantled (all wood and rear roof removed ) and when I look through the holes in the boxing plate all I can see is a mass of rust with the seat belt mounting just about disintegrated. I didn't know about the strengthening panel until online research reveled it to me (ESM only list it on the convertible ) So from what you say, I will have to bend it to conform to the inner sill.
Pete
Pete
Re: replacing traveller sills
Yes just bend it to fit the inner sill or buy a second step sill panel then cut it down and weld it in.
The original pressed reinforcements are not available but there are reasonable replacements available which are curved ....though I had to import mine from Nordsk Morris minors prior to Brexit.
They are not too difficult to fabricate yourself.
I have made several for my own travellers see here and scroll down:-
viewtopic.php?p=460520#p460520
Taupe
The original pressed reinforcements are not available but there are reasonable replacements available which are curved ....though I had to import mine from Nordsk Morris minors prior to Brexit.
They are not too difficult to fabricate yourself.
![Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I have made several for my own travellers see here and scroll down:-
viewtopic.php?p=460520#p460520
Taupe
Re: replacing traveller sills
Hi Taupe, thanks for your answer and the pictures. I'm going to start on it this afternoon after waiting a few days for answers.
Pete
Pete
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Re: replacing traveller sills
The other thing is you don't have use the whole panel, with sills it's often only the bottom inch or 2 that is rusted, and the difficult to get and split seams are at the top, therefore it's much easier to cut just the rusted sections away and seam weld only part of the repair section in.