I have got a feeling this is an old chestnut, but what are the thoughts of you guys on the breather arrangements for the 1098cc engine I am reconditioning. At present there is a pipe and a cannister attached coming from the front tappet chest cover. I take it the canister is some sort of trap. There have been issues with it in the past because it has been cut and welded up. It appears cruddy inside. Can I do away with this. I know that it is important to get the breathing right to avoid oil being pushed past the rear crank scroll ( what a useless invention by the way)
Finally I am pricing new parts, standard piston rings vary in price, some being almost twice as expensive as others. does anyone know whether they are twice as good or are the cheap ones ok. Thanks in anticipation.
Do away with it how? You can't just seal the tappet cover up,and if you just leave it as a hole without the trap, you're spreading oily fumes around the engine bay. Some models just had a pipe venting the fumes down to the underside - might be worth hunting one of those down
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Stay with the 'trap' - if you can't clean it by flushing paraffin through it (OFF the car!) - then consider setting it on fire. This burns out all the gunk - of course it will need re-painting.
what exactly is inside the trap, and what is it for?
Just done this on a v8 engine - its called a flame trap - presumably to stop ignition of fumes.
The PERFECT replacement for whats inside are the stainless steel scourers you can get in Lidle & pound shops etc.
NOT wire wool (wire wool believe it or not is flamable!) but the ones made of strands 2-3mm accross.
It's only been nominated, no awards yet. Over the years, I have done engine jobs, Top ends, and replacing shell bearings with the engine in situ. This is the first time I have done a complete engine, its good to know I have a wealth of experience and good advice readily available and willingly given by members of this forum, thank you.
Water pump carbon seal can be damaged if it's seating has gone rusty - which is one of the reasons we are urged to keep anti-freeze in the car all year round. The pump will either work - or leak ! You will soon find out. Even though there is no obvious 'lip' on the bores - you should glaze-bust the bores (either by hand making a 45 degreee cross hatch pattern with wet/dry paper - or with a hone tool in leccy drill) , and just gently rub away/blend any wear marks at the bore tops with 600 grit paper and paraffin. And of course - carefully inspect and measure the crankshaft journals to decide if it needs a regrind. New oil pump and timing chain(and tensioner rings) are necessary - and inspect the cam followers and throw any with pits or crazing - although usually they are ok on standard engines.
