How do I tell a genuine Tourer

Post by **MinorMoments** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 1:51 pm

I know its on the site here somewhere but can I find it. I have a car to look at and I think its a conversation. Is it MATB or similar that will show its a genuine Tourer

I need a quick answer guys as I am only at work for another couple of hours and no online access at home.

Thanks

Post by **chickenjohn** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:05 pm

I think the chassis number is only a giveaway on early cars.

Holes in the A pillars- interior light switch is a giveaway.

The other two differences are the strenghtening triangular pieces between bottom of dashboard and A pillar on an original will be spot welded to the dash, Mig welded on the chop top.

Look at the bottom of the B pillar where there are other strenghtening pieces, these should also be spot welded and not mig welded.

Dont dismiss a chop top if done well, the difference is neglible and most people (even Minor owners) cannot tell the difference. Just pay less for chop top than a genuine.

Post by **Orkney** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:07 pm

Heres a thread about it
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... sis+number

in addition to what CJ said someone said

Also, you can check the next letter after 'M/A' on the chassis number, if it is a 'T' then it is an original convertible but if it is '2S' then it was a saloonl.

Post by **MinorMoments** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:09 pm

Thanks for those comments but its the chassis bit I really need. This car is MATSD sure that means its not

Post by **Peetee** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:11 pm

The Chassis number letter prefix only applies to cars built after a certain date but I forget what that is. Chassis plates can be swapped so look for the courtesy light switch at the front of the door gap between the hinges. If there is one that has a cross head slot and the whole switch threads into the A-post then it's NOT a genuine soft top.
Also look at the curved strengthening panels below the dash. They should be spot welded in place.

Post by **MinorMoments** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:12 pm

Thanks Orkney, this car is a genuine tourer then, many thanks.

Post by **stevey** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 5:49 pm

yep MAT is correct for a convertible the 5 means its a 1098, so the chassis number checks out as long as its not been replaced.

Post by **paulhumphries** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 5:57 pm

The genuine tourer I scraped had the light switches in the door pillars so that isn't a definative sign.

Paul Humphries.

Post by **aupickup** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 6:00 pm

switches can be put in at anytime though

Post by **paulhumphries** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 6:03 pm

Personally I'd look at the welding holding the reinforcemetns at corner of dash.
They should be spot welds so if missing, edge welded, plug welded etc then that would make me suspicious.

Paul Humphries

Post by **paulhumphries** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 6:05 pm

aupickup wrote:switches can be put in at anytime though

That's what I mean although I've seem to think we've had this debate about door switches before and others say their car had the holes, at least from new.

Paul Humphries.

Post by **Peetee** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:28 pm

Interesting about the switches because they would need a captive nut of sorts which wouldn't be a simple job to retro-fit.
I would imagine the discrepencies are down to what was available at the time of building. Either way it makes spotting a genuine car hard work for sure.

Post by **aupickup** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:19 pm

courtesy light switches did not have a captive nut, they were screwed into the a post threaded part

Post by **Peetee** » Fri Mar 07, 2008 10:09 pm

screwed into the a post threaded part

Well that's what I meant 'of sorts' as the basic thin metal panel is not good enough to do the job on its own.