fuse boxes and failed lights
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- Minor Fan
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fuse boxes and failed lights
I'm not saying this is linked but after having wiper motors and mechanisms changed, and various meddling behind the driver glove compartment and finally working I got in the car in the dark for the first time early this morning and:
No rear lights - but brake lights and indicators working
No speedo light
no interior light
no horn
Today I had a look at the wiring diagram and tried to match it up to the mess of dirt coloured wires Lily appears to have. I swapped the two glass fuses - the only bits my dj head recognises as fuses anyway - at either side over, and now I have the horn and interior light back but apparently not the rear lights and speedo. So in idiot terms - there appears to be a big inline fuse and a small one - is it one of those two that have failed?
No rear lights - but brake lights and indicators working
No speedo light
no interior light
no horn
Today I had a look at the wiring diagram and tried to match it up to the mess of dirt coloured wires Lily appears to have. I swapped the two glass fuses - the only bits my dj head recognises as fuses anyway - at either side over, and now I have the horn and interior light back but apparently not the rear lights and speedo. So in idiot terms - there appears to be a big inline fuse and a small one - is it one of those two that have failed?
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
Later cars have an in'line fuse for the sidelights. Early cars the sidelights are not fused. Look for the inline fuse - white(ish) cartridge looking thing - twists apart to release the fuse inside. Should be near the fixed fusebox - if present.
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
As suggested above check in line fuse, white fuse holder shown in photo below[frame][/frame]
Andy
Secretary Bedford Branch
1966 Smoke Grey Traveller
Secretary Bedford Branch
1966 Smoke Grey Traveller
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
found that one - i can test the fuse by swapping it with the good fuses from the fuse box, then just buy a replacement one from any minor supplier? I'm assuming a normal domestic fuse isn't the option!!
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
For the sake of a few pence, I'd buy more than one.If the replacement blows first time you've still got to trace the fault and each time it's back to the supplier " for another fuse ".
Bob
Bob
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
ebay for fuses a lot cheaper
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
No need to go rushing to a 'Morris supplier'..... Any garage will surely have a box of them....and no - not a domestic fuse...
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
fuses ordered - and a new wing mirror thanks to some careless builders.
I had noticed though that i can't move the bolt on the broken mirror - any ideas about loosening up so i can replace the stalk?
I had noticed though that i can't move the bolt on the broken mirror - any ideas about loosening up so i can replace the stalk?
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
Clean, as much as you possibly can, off the rusted " nut " under the wing.
Wear goggles or keep your eyes outside of the wing, so you don't get dirt or worst...rust in your eyes.
Put the car on an axle stand, wheels chocked to stop movement and remove the wheel for better access.
Spray liberally with Plus gas ( dismantling fluid ) and leave it to do it's work.Repeat the application.The longer you can leave it to creep into the thread, the easier it will be to take it apart.
With the correct size spanner or socket gently work the nut...back and forth, no more than a eighth of a turn.The object is to get movement.Hold the stem of the mirror firmly to stop it twisting. Spray again and move it some more.Resist the temptation to do it all in one go." Softly, softly catchee monkey ".
If disaster strikes, you may require a nut splitter tool to crack open / split the nut.Application of heat , in the form of a blow torch might help release the rust's grip on the thread but it requires careful application.You don't won't to have to respray the wing because the paint bubbled up with the heat !!
Bob
Wear goggles or keep your eyes outside of the wing, so you don't get dirt or worst...rust in your eyes.
Put the car on an axle stand, wheels chocked to stop movement and remove the wheel for better access.
Spray liberally with Plus gas ( dismantling fluid ) and leave it to do it's work.Repeat the application.The longer you can leave it to creep into the thread, the easier it will be to take it apart.
With the correct size spanner or socket gently work the nut...back and forth, no more than a eighth of a turn.The object is to get movement.Hold the stem of the mirror firmly to stop it twisting. Spray again and move it some more.Resist the temptation to do it all in one go." Softly, softly catchee monkey ".
If disaster strikes, you may require a nut splitter tool to crack open / split the nut.Application of heat , in the form of a blow torch might help release the rust's grip on the thread but it requires careful application.You don't won't to have to respray the wing because the paint bubbled up with the heat !!
Bob
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
updates:
changed the white inline fuse with a new 35a one - no change.
On the wiring diagram which I can just about make out) the horn and interior light fuse is the left vertical fuse in the box - which is now ok and still has the original fuse in, though the ampage of the fuse is unreadable. The right hand vertical fuse covers what exactly? I ask because I took out the 35a fuse and replaced it and nothing seems different and the original fuse looked good.
So I still don't have rear lights or a speedo light and the fuel gauge seems intermittent. Everything was fine and all seems to have failed at once.
And I STILL can't get that mirror nut loose!
Thoughts anyone?
changed the white inline fuse with a new 35a one - no change.
On the wiring diagram which I can just about make out) the horn and interior light fuse is the left vertical fuse in the box - which is now ok and still has the original fuse in, though the ampage of the fuse is unreadable. The right hand vertical fuse covers what exactly? I ask because I took out the 35a fuse and replaced it and nothing seems different and the original fuse looked good.
So I still don't have rear lights or a speedo light and the fuel gauge seems intermittent. Everything was fine and all seems to have failed at once.
And I STILL can't get that mirror nut loose!
Thoughts anyone?
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
None of my suggestions for the wing mirror nut worked then ?
Bob
Bob
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
i am sans nut splitters - i've tried the lubricant - nothing at all.
[sig]10256[/sig]
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
i'm not to be trusted with a heat source, and it's got to have had half a can of lubricant on it.
To be honest i'm still more annoyed that i can't get the rear lights and speedo light to work
To be honest i'm still more annoyed that i can't get the rear lights and speedo light to work
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
Are the front sidelights still working ok? You'll need to take the speedo out and look for broken or pulled connection in/around the light switch.
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- Minor Fan
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
i think the sidelights are out too - which looking at the very low res wiring diagram suggests a single blown fuse - but my addled brain can't work out a) which one (although i've swapped the inline and the left hand vertical one in the fuse box which restored the horn and interior lights) - which i guess leaves the right hand vertical one! and b) what ampage it it is.
i suspect that my garage was in the glove compartment whilst investigating the windscreen wipers so that might explain the speedo - i'll see how to get that out later
And finally - nice steam train - which line do you work / volunteer on? My girlfriend loves a steam train and we're working our way round various lines.
i suspect that my garage was in the glove compartment whilst investigating the windscreen wipers so that might explain the speedo - i'll see how to get that out later
And finally - nice steam train - which line do you work / volunteer on? My girlfriend loves a steam train and we're working our way round various lines.
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
If ALL the sidelights are out - do the headlights still work?? You really do need to get at the light switch to check for power there.
I'm a steam and diesel Driver at Bo'ness & Kinneil Railway - just north of Edinburgh.
http://www.srps.org.uk/railway/
I'm a steam and diesel Driver at Bo'ness & Kinneil Railway - just north of Edinburgh.
http://www.srps.org.uk/railway/
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:20 am
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Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
Working - headlights, indicators, brake lights
not working - rear lights, side lights, speedo light
trying to decide - fuel gauge
So, i'll be looking at how to remove the speedo now!
not working - rear lights, side lights, speedo light
trying to decide - fuel gauge
So, i'll be looking at how to remove the speedo now!
[sig]10256[/sig]
Re: fuse boxes and failed lights
loosen screw each side through a small hole in the glovebox liners....and wiggle it out. may be wise to disconnect the battery while doing so.....