Brakes not used for 17 years

[JeremyT]

Hi there - I hope someone can advise.
I have just purchased a 4 door Morris that failed it's MOT in 1999 and has been sat in a garage since - it's now in my garage and time to start work. It failed on 'o/s/f brake binding, front brakes out of balance'. The brakes were then left with bleed nipples loose and with no pressure in the system.
My dad advised that I replace the master cylinder and the brake cylinders to start with, but based on the failure and the fact that it's been sat for 17 years, is there anything else I should be replacing / addressing regarding the brakes?
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Jeremy

[Dean]

In my opinion, everything.

renew all wheel cylinders, nipples, brass junction bits, pipework, master cylinder and shoes.

Mine stood for 20 years or so and the fluid evapourated and left a residue in everything.

While everything was apart I cleaned and repainted the backing plates.

[JeremyT]

Thanks Dean, good advice

[bmcecosse]

Yes - everything - although I dare say the brass T pieces will be fine. If the front brakes are 7" drums - wise to upgrade to later 8" while you are in there.

[simmitc]

Another vote to replace everything including the drums - they will have a thick coating of rust and it's just not worth the effort of trying the clean them. If skimmed they will be too thin.

[beero]

Nobody mentioned the rubber brake hoses! They will be perished as well as anything else rubber, including tyres, hoses, bushes, etc.

[JeremyT]

Thanks all again

[bmcecosse]

'Everything' means just that - ALL the parts of the braking system - I would probably include new handbrake cables too!

[MarkyB]

Although it's a contentious subject here I'd strongly suggest using silicone brake fluid after a full rebuild like this.
It isn't hygroscopic so doesn't cause the cylinders to rust and doesn't need to be changed every few years.
It is more expensive and sometimes harder to bleed.

[colin addison]

I agree with MarkyB, especially if the system is "dry". I've used silicon fluid for 30 odd years with no problems, firstly on a TR2 and now an MM. Have never had problems bleeding. I maybe refilled the TR once but that was because of other issues. Over time I'm sure it's actually cheaper! (contentious for sure??).
Colin

[GBond]

On a completely new system I'd go for silicone as well.

Do take note it can swell some rubber components so I'd leave them in silicone for a few days while assembling everything just to make sure.

Also, if you plan on repainting any parts of the car better do it before or keep them very much away from the silicone, as it's nearly impossible to get 100% off and will contaminate anything you pretend to paint. On the other hand it does no damage to already painted parts.

[bmcecosse]

Well - it's all been dosed in DOT4 now, so too late to 'worry' about silicone.. As I suggested ages ago - slacken off the adjusters and try it......

[JeremyT]

Thanks all - much appreciated